Aranmula is a picturesque sleepy little village unlike the unending townships, which dot Kerala. It is situated near Changannur in South Kerala and is famous for its ancient temple dedicated to Parthasarathy or Lord Krishna represented as the charioteer or Arjuna. It is one of the most popular and sacred Vaishnavite pilgrim centre praised and sung by the Akwars.
The origin of the temple is closely associated with the famous epic Mahabharata in the ‘Kurukshetra' battle between the Pandavas and the Kauravas. On the ninth day of the battle, the attaching Pandavas could not proceed further against Bhishma, the grand old man. Krishna , who had vowed not to take up arms in the fight, was forced to take up a weapon on that day. He used his discuss (Chakra) and that is how the idol of Krihna as Parthasarathy at Aranmula is depicted with ‘Chakra' in His arm.
The temple at Aranmula is just a simple structure in the same style of Kerala architecture. There is nothing special about the temple as such, except the usual rituals as prescribed for the Vaishnava temples are followed. The idol tradition, the ‘Pancha Pandavas' (Five brothers) made an extensive pilgrimage to holy places after installing Parikshit as the king at the capital city o Hastinapura. When they came to Kerala, each of them enshrined an idol of their tutelary deity on the banks of river Pamba.
Arjuna is said to have installed the original idol of Vishnu represented as Parthasarathy at Nilackal. But as time passed, the place was covered by a thick forest. As human habitation became very difficult, the devotees then decided to shift the idol on a place most suitable for worship. Accordingly, they transported the idol on a raft constructed out of ‘Six bamboo poles' to the present place. In Malayalam, ‘Six bamboos' mean ‘Aranmula', and hence the village got the name.
Generally, most of the temples in Kerala are very closely associated with processions of elephants during the festivities and important celebrations. But the speciality of Aranmula temple is its close association with a type o water carnival, called ‘Vallam Kali' or boat race, which is usually held during the annual Onam festival season.
Colourful procession of boats like the ‘Churulan' leads the way. Behind them come the ‘Kovallams' or ‘Snake Boats'. The long graceful ‘Chundans' with hundreds of oarsmen and veteran helmsmen perched on the high stern glide their way. The high pitched rendering of the traditional ‘Vanchipattu' (Boat song) famous for its music and lyrical beauty, adds charm to the gay atmosphere.
The majestic Snake Boats are a unique feature of Kerala. Their origin is traced to the dim past. According to legend, Snake Boats were first built at Aranmula, a few centuries ago as escorts of ‘Oadans' belonging to the Parhasarthy temple. These ‘Oadans' or country craft were used to bring rice and other provisions for the use of temple form far away centre. In order to prevent these vessels from falling into the hands of decoits, the people of various localities around Aranmula joined together and arranged huge boats in the shape of ‘Gliding snakes' on water. Thus these boats got the name as ‘Snake Boats'.
In course of time, the procession o Snake Boats became an important feature of annual water carnival everywhere. Each boat, about 30 meters long carries four helmsmen, a hundred rowers and twenty five singers of boat songs.
The spirit of those days has withstood the trials and tribulations of centuries. In 1952, Pandit Nehru, the Late Prime Minister, witnessed the first boat race on Ponnamada Kayal at Alapuzha (Alleppey); he was so elated that he instituted a trophy in his name to be given away to the winner of the race. The Alleppey Boat Race, now better known as the Prime Minister Trophy Boat Race, attracts every year laks of people from all parts of the country.
The festival of Onam is celebrated to herald the arrival of Mahabali, the mythical king who ruled Kerala in the distant past. Mahabali comes down to visit his subjects annually to ensure that they are content, equal and happy. The boat race of Aranmula is held on the Pamban river.
The Aranmula boat races, is the major event, out of the three boat races conducted in Kerala. The first boat race held in the backwaters of Alapuzha, popularly known as the Nehru Cup Race, attracts the biggest crowd.
The Payippad boat race, the second race of consequence in the state, is equally competitive drawing lesser number of foreign tourists. In the third boat race, at Aranmula, the original spirit still survives. Here, the pervading ambience and ethos lives upto the literal translation o boat race in Kerala, popularly called ‘Vallam Kali' or boat games.
The ride from Changannur to Aranmula in the olden days was undertaken by boats when there were no dams or bridges. The boat races are the testing ground of the community to prove the physical and mental worth. The participants in the Snake Boats row to the beat of the pace setter at the centre, from start to finish and without breaking the rhythm of the fellow rowers. A missed or mistimed stroke will generate confusion among the rowers and confusion follows.
In Aranmula, People, still rural, congregate in large numbers in front of the Bhavathi temple to offer prayers before the commencement of boat race. Snake Boats assemble in the river near the temple early in the morning from about thirty locations. They sail ahead for some two hours in pairs.
Men dressed in white ‘Dhoties' and traditional Kerala towels wrapped around their heads, their bodies bare, row the small boats. The temple boats, however, do not take part in the race. Instead, they go out in ceremonial display on the waters of the Pamba, in honour of the presiding deity of the temple. In the background, the blue hills provide an alluring setting.
These hills with their dense forests grown over centuries provided the desired timber for making small boats for racing. Many boats participated in the race in the past. Due to paucity of wood with the depleted forests and the increasing labour costs, only two boats participate at present.
The artistry involved in making these boats in an interesting thing to watch. The arrangement of planks, making them waterproof, etc., are the old practices still contained. The scientific explanation behind the phenomenon is still baffling. The rhythmic tapping of the boat carpenters and their dexterity and ingenuity are fascinating.
Aranmula is only 10 kms. from Changannur. The boat ride from Alapuzha takes three hours. Regular buses now run by the Government connect Changannur and Aranmula with Thiruvananthauram, Alapuzha and Kottayam. The nearest Airport is Kochi , which is also connected by rail with the rest of the country. Excellent accommodation is available at Tiruvananthapuram, Alapuzha and Kochi . A small rest house is maintained by the temple at Aranmula for overnight stay.